In southern Mexico there is a city that is swarming with art. Alebrijes, carving, weaving, pottery, metalwork, leather, and much more are created in this compact area and shipped to ports and galleries around the world. Alebrijes in particular has become a staple art exploration in schools all over the world. First created by Pedro Linares with paper mache, later by others in carved wood, and now in popular culture in the movie Coco by Disney. (I use plaster mache with my students because it dries quickly and can be painted readily.)
As with all forms of art and craft, many examples are not much more than tourist-trap-gifts, but there are some who take the art to its highest levels like in the alebrijes workshops of Jacobo and María or Efraín Fuentes and Silvia Gómez of San Martín Tilcajete. Their work cannot be fully appreciated online but should be seen in person to be understood. These two families help train local residents in the artform from selecting the right copal trees (bursera glabrifolia) to carving, filling, treating, coating, coloring, and painting.
The same is true of the unique black on black pottery of ancient indigenous people, rediscovered and revived by Doña Rosa of San Bartolo Coyotepec, and continued by her grandson as well as Fabián Canseco who works with Mexican Antiquities Authorities. Fabián has a small museum in his studio of works he has found and collected in the nearby hills once occupied by indigenous peoples. These ancient works inform his creation of modern black on black ceramics.
Weaving too can be utilitarian and overlooked, but the masters of the art shine in the village of Teotitlan del Valle. The Isaac Vasquez Studio takes traditional weaving very seriously with all natural dyes and hand spun wool. Fidel Cruz Lazo combines tight crisp traditional weaving with macramé edges for a truly awesome finish. Then there are others like Isaac Armando Martínez Lazo with his father or Alberto Sánchez Martínez who take the traditional weaving of the Oaxaca valley and combine it with visual motifs that would remind one of a fine art painting. Their work goes beyond the craft and become expressive works of art.
Each village around the city of Oaxaca specializes in one or two specific crafts. It is quite likely that if a Mexican rug, weaving, ceramic piece, or carving caught your eye in some little shop along the border or in Santa Fe New Mexico, it may have come from the Oaxaca region. As art teachers, we know it is valuable to see works of art in books, online resources, videos, etc., but we know too that the value of a visit to a great museum cannot be understated. Seeing the brushstrokes on an original van Gogh, the vivid colors of a Monet, the subtle translucence of a Rembrandt painting cannot be appreciated without seeing the work in person. The same is true of crafts made by the living masters of Oaxaca.
By no means is this a complete list of what is available in the Oaxaca area. There is so much more. I am reminded by a reader that Oaxaca has a thriving printmaking history. You can often see paper printed images posted on buildings and walls like artful graffiti. Masters of printing sell their work throughout the city of Oaxaca and are well worth your attention. The machete is a common theme in prints as an agricultural implement, but also a symbol of the common people (farmers) rising up when they must.
By no means is this a complete list of what is available in the Oaxaca area. There is so much more. I am reminded by a reader that Oaxaca has a thriving printmaking history. You can often see paper printed images posted on buildings and walls like artful graffiti. Masters of printing sell their work throughout the city of Oaxaca and are well worth your attention. The machete is a common theme in prints as an agricultural implement, but also a symbol of the common people (farmers) rising up when they must.
Before you raise an eyebrow because you have heard, "Mexico is not a very safe place to travel," the issues they face are far less that we see in the United States, and Oaxaca is nowhere near areas with issues. At no moment during my visit did I ever feel less than welcome and safe. Anyone who travels outside the United States should check where issues may be, but I can assure you Oaxaca is safe and welcoming.
If you plan on visiting, I'd recommend the use of a guide outside the city. I used the services of a local taxi guide, Jose'. His family has worked with the crafters all around Oaxaca for generations. His website is Oaxaca4U.weebly.com. Most hotel-tours of the area will focus on particular studios that have paid a fee to be put on a certain tour, but Jose' takes you to whomever you want to see and can suggest some of the best artists who are often overlooked by crowded tours. Whatever you do, at some point in your career as an art educator, I highly recommend a visit to Oaxaca to reinvigorate your artistic spirit. A lot can be done in a week, and even more within two.
I am going to expand this blog post with additional information you may find helpful should you decide that you'd like to visit Oaxaca and/or Mexico City. If you have no intension of ever visiting, you have reached the end of the pertinent portions of the blog post for you.
(FYI: I built Jose's website as a gift to his lovely family after they took us to breakfast at a local eatery. Jose really took his time to show this art teacher the "real Oaxaca." It was my "thank you" gift.)
I am going to expand this blog post with additional information you may find helpful should you decide that you'd like to visit Oaxaca and/or Mexico City. If you have no intension of ever visiting, you have reached the end of the pertinent portions of the blog post for you.
(FYI: I built Jose's website as a gift to his lovely family after they took us to breakfast at a local eatery. Jose really took his time to show this art teacher the "real Oaxaca." It was my "thank you" gift.)
Should you decide to go to Oaxaca, download Dualingo to your phone and set it to practice Spanish 5 minutes a day or more for the months and weeks leading up to your trip. It was very helpful, but many people do speak English in Oaxaca. Google Translate has an app too that was VERY helpful. It can even translate text on signs and menus through your cell phone camera. And speaking of Menus, Oaxaca is considered to have the best food in all of Mexico!
As you pack, remember Oaxaca is not "Florida hot." It averages 70 to 90 degrees all year, and in the summer it rains most evenings. It is a conservative country so almost no one wears shorts, so bring comfortable light pants, jeans, or light dresses to fit in. Shorts may be fine for excursions, but you may feel out of place. About a week or two before you visit, go to your local bank and ask them to provide you with some Pesos. Most US banks will for a very small fee, far less than at the Airport Exchanges. $500 USD is a good amount to convert. Check the rates, but it's far better to come with pesos than try to exchange them later. Most banks will have partner banks in Mexico so you can get cash without fees. Tell your credit card companies the dates you will be traveling.
Pack passports, keep photo copies in your luggage, antibiotic ointment, medicines in their original containers, and a hat. Sunscreen is readily available in Oaxaca and can't be brought through TSA, but you will need it. Never come with new shoes, but bring what's most comfortable and broken in, you'll be walking a lot. When you enter, customs will give you a special entry card. DO NOT LOSE IT. You'll need it for a smooth exit.
If your phone company won't let you roam in Mexico, consider buying a sim chip at any number of local shops and swap it out for the week. For about $8 USD you can have 15 days of limitless calls, GPS, and internet. Weirdly, many cell phone stores are located within shoe stores. One was across the street from our hotel.
Tipping is customary in Mexico in the same places you'd do so in the USA. They tip a bit less though, 10-15%. When shopping in markets or outdoors, don't be afraid to bargain, particularly if you're buying more than one item.
If your phone company won't let you roam in Mexico, consider buying a sim chip at any number of local shops and swap it out for the week. For about $8 USD you can have 15 days of limitless calls, GPS, and internet. Weirdly, many cell phone stores are located within shoe stores. One was across the street from our hotel.
Tipping is customary in Mexico in the same places you'd do so in the USA. They tip a bit less though, 10-15%. When shopping in markets or outdoors, don't be afraid to bargain, particularly if you're buying more than one item.
Oaxaca is a bit unusual as Mexican Cities go. It has a small town feel with a very festive atmosphere. When you arrive at the airport, take a group van (Colectivo) from the airport to your hotel. There's no Uber in Oaxaca due to strong taxi unions. When you settle in, get a large jug of water at any local shop like Oxxo because you cannot drink the tap water nor brush your teeth with it. Most hotels will provide some free bottled water, but it's not enough. Thankfully purified water is cheap.
Getting around the city is a breeze! Most everything is super walkable, but when you use a yellow taxi, agree on a price before you go anywhere, likely between 40 and 70 pesos if your destination is within the city but too far to walk. If you want to go further, consider contacting Oaxaca4U.weebly.com .
Getting around the city is a breeze! Most everything is super walkable, but when you use a yellow taxi, agree on a price before you go anywhere, likely between 40 and 70 pesos if your destination is within the city but too far to walk. If you want to go further, consider contacting Oaxaca4U.weebly.com .
Don't be afraid of street food. A long line and hot items are well worth the wait! When getting drinks with ice, see if the cubes are actually cylinders, if so, then it is purified ice. If not, ask. Avoid items that may have been washed in or made with tap water. (Avoid shaved ice no matter how delicious it looks!) Pealed fruit is generally safe. We used our big jug of water to wash all our fruits before eating them. Boiled water is perfectly okay too so dig into soups and hot beverages. Do try local coffee. It's grown within the state and has chocolaty notes with a hint of cinnamon. Hot chocolate with milk is also pretty awesome and nothing like Hershey's! Explore, eat, and if you do get ill, azithromycin will nip it in the bud and you do not need a prescription to get it at any pharmacy.
There is always something happening in Oaxaca. I witnessed no less than 3 festivals in our 6 days. We stayed downtown at Hotel Parador San Miguel Oaxaca. They offer A/C and everything was a short walk away. The hotel itself is super charming with good wifi. Oaxaca does offer many popular B&Bs as well as places listed on AirBnB, but we were very happy with our hotel at under $85 per night.
A guide to the surrounding villages and sights of Oaxaca can be very helpful and save you a lot of time. Most rental cars do not come with GPS, and addresses do not really make sense. There are many unmarked speed bumps throughout the city and you will ruin your car rental if you miss just one! Building numbers do not always go in order and oddly enough, in small towns, can change fairly frequently. A local guide can figure out the right address and keep you safe the whole time.
A guide to the surrounding villages and sights of Oaxaca can be very helpful and save you a lot of time. Most rental cars do not come with GPS, and addresses do not really make sense. There are many unmarked speed bumps throughout the city and you will ruin your car rental if you miss just one! Building numbers do not always go in order and oddly enough, in small towns, can change fairly frequently. A local guide can figure out the right address and keep you safe the whole time.
As for shopping, Oaxaca city will offer many boutique shops, and the higher quality work will cost more. Some alebrijes or black pottery can be bought for a few dollars, but the good stuff can set you back a few hundred. Why shop at boutique stores when you can visit the studio of the artist, learn about their techniques, symbols, history, and methods? As an art teacher, I learned a lot I can apply in my classroom! We bought some very special pieces for ourselves and some less expensive, but nice works for friends and family. It was great to support local artists and see the variety of what is available. Look close at items, quality shines. Tight designs, with high levels of detail are a sure sign of great craftsmanship. Loose and bold work may be the mark of a child in a trade school still learning the craft. There's nothing wrong with that, but know what you're getting. When you visit a studio, you'll know how it all works and learn a lot along the way!
Culturally and historically there is more to see than just the arts and crafts. Downtown has the amazing Church of Santa Domingo with a wonderful museum attached. Behind the church is a magnificent botanical garden full of native south Mexican plants. Within short drives you can visit the Oaxacan Pyramids of Monte Alban, or the cliffs of Hierve el Agua, a set of natural rock formations called the petrified waterfalls, where you can even take a cliff-side swim!
After shopping, touring, and falling in love with Oaxaca, you'll need to get all that stuff home again. We put all of our delicate purchases into our carry-on bags, and put most of the laundry into our checked baggage. Everything was safe and sound when we returned home. It's worth it to actually pay for additional checked luggage because shipping can be so expensive and unpredictable, but there is a UPS location in the center of Oaxaca if you need it.
Obviously a week is nowhere near long enough to be an expert on Oaxaca, nor is it enough time to see all the crafts and artisans of the area. THIS webpage will offer a more detailed list of what one could see and the variety of crafts created in this unique valley.
After shopping, touring, and falling in love with Oaxaca, you'll need to get all that stuff home again. We put all of our delicate purchases into our carry-on bags, and put most of the laundry into our checked baggage. Everything was safe and sound when we returned home. It's worth it to actually pay for additional checked luggage because shipping can be so expensive and unpredictable, but there is a UPS location in the center of Oaxaca if you need it.
Obviously a week is nowhere near long enough to be an expert on Oaxaca, nor is it enough time to see all the crafts and artisans of the area. THIS webpage will offer a more detailed list of what one could see and the variety of crafts created in this unique valley.
My last recommendation is for breakfast/brunch. Boulenc is an AMAZING bakery in the center of town. Their address is Calle Porfirio Díaz 207, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca. They open at 8:30 am and I have never in my life has such good fresh pastries! They serve wonderful dishes in their restaurant for breakfast and lunch, but step into the bakery and eat a bit of heaven. You can generally trust Google online reviews for restaurants in the city, there are many awesome places to eat, but Boulenc is something special for sure!
If you do go to Oaxaca, and use Jose' as your guide, please mention that you heard about him through this blog post and do tell him you are an art teacher. This way he can design a unique experience for you that will be far better than any hotel group tour.
Some may want to extend their plans with a few days in Mexico City (I did) to see the Museums and sites there. I can highly recommend visits to the following places: the Teotihuacan Pyramid grounds, Our Lady of Guadalupe, the Museo Antropologia (top 10 in the world), Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Frida Kahlo Museum, and many more. Keep in mind most museums are closed on Mondays, but your teacher's photo I.D. can get you in free! Uber is the best way to get around the city. We used a local guide Aaron Cruz to see the Pyramids and Our Lady of Guadalupe. His number in Mexico is 52-551-1088-8421. He is best reached by text and picked us up from our hotel. I used his service as he was highly recommended!
If you do go to Oaxaca, and use Jose' as your guide, please mention that you heard about him through this blog post and do tell him you are an art teacher. This way he can design a unique experience for you that will be far better than any hotel group tour.
Some may want to extend their plans with a few days in Mexico City (I did) to see the Museums and sites there. I can highly recommend visits to the following places: the Teotihuacan Pyramid grounds, Our Lady of Guadalupe, the Museo Antropologia (top 10 in the world), Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Frida Kahlo Museum, and many more. Keep in mind most museums are closed on Mondays, but your teacher's photo I.D. can get you in free! Uber is the best way to get around the city. We used a local guide Aaron Cruz to see the Pyramids and Our Lady of Guadalupe. His number in Mexico is 52-551-1088-8421. He is best reached by text and picked us up from our hotel. I used his service as he was highly recommended!
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